I only found out after assloads of research into almost every middle to upper middle end Swiss brand out there. With the craptastic economy and the age of online shopping, luxury watches are at their lowest in like....forever. You can pretty much buy any Tag, Rolex, Omega, Corum, Girard Perregaux, etc for 50% or less than their MSRPs and depending on lack of name recognition, as much as 70-80% off.
I was just about to pull the trigger on an Ebay bid when I finally had my eyes opened by this: http://www.timezone.com/library/wbore/w ... 4647656250
Bottom line: Japan (Seiko in particular) makes better movements than the Swiss and has done so for the last 35+ years. Their movements (at least the comparable level stuff) keep better timing, require less maintenence, and are more durable. If they actually tried to go into the high end tourbillon stuff, they could have already given Patek Phillip a run for its money.Why COSC Doesn’t Grade Watches According to Performance
The objective assessment and testing of civilian watches started in the railway age when confidence in the timekeeping qualities of your watch became paramount. Observatories and laboratories in major cities rated timepieces. Manufacturers competed for prizes. Customers paid premiums for high-rated watches.
COSC differs in one important respect from all previous watch testing institutions and observatories. It is strictly non-competitive. There are no points awarded or any prizes. There are no degrees of success or honorable mentions. The watches either pass or fail.
This was the one condition demanded by the Swiss watch industry when COSC was founded in 1973. Until that time, there were two institutions in Switzerland that issued rating certificates to watches. The observatories rated prepared timepieces, held competitions and awarded prizes. Local testing laboratories in seven watch making towns issued rating certificates to time-of-day watches. These were grouped into an association called ABDO. ABDO rating certificates gave commendations such as "especially good" to deserving movements. Ninety percent of the watches submitted to ABDO laboratories were from three brands — Rolex, Omega and Mido.
In 1972, an important delegation of Swiss watch manufacturers went to see Mr René Meylan, then industry minister in the Neuchâtel cantonal government. They demanded the end of the observatory competitions. The reason: the Japanese had swept the board in the last two events. Mr Meylan replied that he thought that the whole point of the competitions was for the best to win. The brands then threatened to boycott the contests. Meylan gave in. The observatory competitions were suspended and never revived.
At the same time Rolex, Omega and Mido started to dismember ABDO. By selectively boycotting one or other of the seven testing laboratories they caused each to grant increasing discounts and favors until the organization collapsed.
Mr Soguel says COSC does not compile or publish comparative results because there is no demand for it from the brands.
He compares the COSC certificate to a university degree. “It certifies that you have reached a certain standard, but it does not guarantee that you can still pass the test 20 years hence. And when you frame your diploma on your office wall, you don’t mention the marks you got.”
Were COSC to introduce any sort of ranking by test results, Swiss watchmakers would be forced to compete on the intrinsic qualities of their watches and the whole value hierarchy of Swiss watches would be overturned.