I have a '94 Mustang GT with a Mac High Flow H Pipe and Mac Mufflers and seems latley with the summer heat I'm having problems with the car running really rough and dowshifting itself after it's running for awhile. When I stop the car it won't start for like 30mins.
I'm wondering if it's Vapor Lock or maybe the fuel pump is bad. If any of you are car buffs can help me out that would be great. I hate taking my car to a shop to get it looked at. They always break something else and then I have to spend more money.
Need Help from you Car Buffs out there........
Moderator: TheMachine
Need Help from you Car Buffs out there........
Elidain Wrathbringer
Level 63 Wizard
Brewing Company
Level 63 Wizard
Brewing Company
Re: Need Help from you Car Buffs out there........
I'd suggest you check out one of the mustang clubs of america and ask in their tech forums. People there will generally be able to trouble shoot your problem quite quickly.Elidain wrote:I have a '94 Mustang GT with a Mac High Flow H Pipe and Mac Mufflers and seems latley with the summer heat I'm having problems with the car running really rough and dowshifting itself after it's running for awhile. When I stop the car it won't start for like 30mins.
I'm wondering if it's Vapor Lock or maybe the fuel pump is bad. If any of you are car buffs can help me out that would be great. I hate taking my car to a shop to get it looked at. They always break something else and then I have to spend more money.
Now if you had a 89-95 TBird SC I'd be able to help ya
"When you dance with the devil, the devil don't change, the devil changes you."
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Phugg_Innay
- Star Farmer
- Posts: 386
- Joined: July 3, 2002, 10:36 pm
- Location: East Bay , California
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If you have modded the engine, the starter prob could be an overheat of the starter. A few friends have had that problem on Chevy's , never heard it on a Mustang though.
The shifting prob , I am guessing its an Auto . I had that prob in my Jeep , turns out I had thrashed the tranny. Check the fluid , if its not the nice red color , start to worry a bit. I made the mistake of thinking the fluid was just going , it wasnt , I had it changed and a week later the tranny POOPED out. Turns out the guy that changed it neglected to tell me that there was a bunch of metal shavings in the pan. Well $1200 later and 3 trips back to the tranny shop it was fixed. I snapped a shaft (the guys at the shop said they had never seen that happen). My symptoms sound very similar to what yours are , the longer you drive , the warmer it gets , and then you loose the capicity to even use 1st gear. You will end up taking off in either 2nd or 3rd , NOT good when you get the lovely chatter and shutter. Just my exp on the tranny thing , good luck.
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/cgi-bin/ ... tion=intro
*edit* another with starting could be the shifter linkage. If you do a lot of hard launches it tends to twist things a bit. I have the issue with that one
but mines not from launches , more like to much frame flex from wheeling. Well my linkage is a bit out of whack and sometimes it wont start because of the position of the shifter , just drop it down to Nuetral and off I go : )
The shifting prob , I am guessing its an Auto . I had that prob in my Jeep , turns out I had thrashed the tranny. Check the fluid , if its not the nice red color , start to worry a bit. I made the mistake of thinking the fluid was just going , it wasnt , I had it changed and a week later the tranny POOPED out. Turns out the guy that changed it neglected to tell me that there was a bunch of metal shavings in the pan. Well $1200 later and 3 trips back to the tranny shop it was fixed. I snapped a shaft (the guys at the shop said they had never seen that happen). My symptoms sound very similar to what yours are , the longer you drive , the warmer it gets , and then you loose the capicity to even use 1st gear. You will end up taking off in either 2nd or 3rd , NOT good when you get the lovely chatter and shutter. Just my exp on the tranny thing , good luck.
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/cgi-bin/ ... tion=intro
*edit* another with starting could be the shifter linkage. If you do a lot of hard launches it tends to twist things a bit. I have the issue with that one
but mines not from launches , more like to much frame flex from wheeling. Well my linkage is a bit out of whack and sometimes it wont start because of the position of the shifter , just drop it down to Nuetral and off I go : )Phugg Innay Bard ( retired )
WTFO ,,, (What the Fuck , OVER)
WTFO ,,, (What the Fuck , OVER)
The starter problem probable stems from the heat produced by your headers. In almost all cars made, the starter is mounted remarkebly close to the exhaust header(s). The heat produced by the headers will "overheat", in a sense, your starter, not allowing it to function. Chances are, if this is indeed part of the problem, you will need a new starater soon.
The only cure I know for this are header wraps. These are a thick rope-like item that you wrap around the headers, insulating their heat output from the rest of the underhood items.
On the transmission part...what exactly is it doing? As in, can you elaborate more on the situation? My first inclination is fuel line clogging, fuel pump, or O2 sensors. Second, and probably best for you, is catalytic converter failure. Go under your ride, after it has cooled down, and punch the bottom of your catalytic. If you hear sounds like a baby rattle (loose material in converter housing) then you need a new one. You can find a hi performance (hi-flow) converter on the market for $250. BUT...you cannot change it out yourself. You MUST use a state sanctioned garage to do it. It is an emissions item that the government keeps close tabs on.
I hope that helps!
The only cure I know for this are header wraps. These are a thick rope-like item that you wrap around the headers, insulating their heat output from the rest of the underhood items.
On the transmission part...what exactly is it doing? As in, can you elaborate more on the situation? My first inclination is fuel line clogging, fuel pump, or O2 sensors. Second, and probably best for you, is catalytic converter failure. Go under your ride, after it has cooled down, and punch the bottom of your catalytic. If you hear sounds like a baby rattle (loose material in converter housing) then you need a new one. You can find a hi performance (hi-flow) converter on the market for $250. BUT...you cannot change it out yourself. You MUST use a state sanctioned garage to do it. It is an emissions item that the government keeps close tabs on.
I hope that helps!
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Fallanthas
- Way too much time!
- Posts: 1525
- Joined: July 17, 2002, 1:11 pm
Yep.The starter problem probable stems from the heat produced by your headers. In almost all cars made, the starter is mounted remarkebly close to the exhaust header(s). The heat produced by the headers will "overheat", in a sense, your starter, not allowing it to function. Chances are, if this is indeed part of the problem, you will need a new starater soon.
Look in a Chilton's manual and see where your ECM module is located. My bet is it's on the firewall and too close to those headers. Build too much heat and you are going to get some seriously weird shit going on after the engine warms up.
When it is warm and will not start, odds on it is a bad starter. I had a problem with the last piece of foreign trash I will ever own that did that shiznat all the time. Don't let anyone pick on your manufacturer, they all suck.
Car gets hot, stuff in starter expands and contracts with temp changes, small shirt becomes big one, engine cools, vehicle starts.
Car gets hot, stuff in starter expands and contracts with temp changes, small shirt becomes big one, engine cools, vehicle starts.
She Dreams in Digital
\"Led Zeppelin taught an entire generation of young men how to make love, if they just listen\"- Michael Reed(2005)
\"Led Zeppelin taught an entire generation of young men how to make love, if they just listen\"- Michael Reed(2005)
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Melrin_Specclaster
- Star Farmer
- Posts: 291
- Joined: July 3, 2002, 4:28 pm
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Headers can definately eat a starter, definately gotta put a heat shield of some type on it. A bad flywheel can cause starters to go out, but that doesnt sound like your problem here though. The problem with new headers and exhaust is people dont realize what it does to their engine heat, air flow etc. Definately check for shavings in your oil and transmission fluid cause it points to other problems. I'd definately slap a new starter on it with a good heat shield to start, that should at least get it starting when you want it to. Also check your wiring around your starter and exhaust and make sure you havent burned any of your protection off and left wires exposed. I don't know if you jiggle any to try to make it start sometimes (if this is a big problem I'm assuming you have) and some exposed wire could cause this. Lastly make sure your nuts are tight on the starter. After market headers, exhaust etc can cause the engine to vibrate more which can cause nuts to loosen faster than normal.
Coercer
I forgot to mention, most header wraps are going too absorb moisture, and keep it soaked in for long amounts of time...this is a quick fix, and if left on for long periods of time, could cause corrosion between it and the header itself. In other words, your car may become very loud one day, because a large hole has corroded itself in your exhaust.
Just a heads up
I would just look for an aftermarket, stainless steel, starter heat shield. Usually, you take the starter off its mount(s), put the heat shield on the mount(s), then put the starter back on.
Also, if you have a complete aftermarket exhaust (excluding the catalytic I assume), then you probably got one that is 1/2" or larger in diameter than factory spec. While this will give you the hook up on HP and noise, it WILL fuck with your engines back pressure. Combustion engines are designed with an exhaust system that will supply the correct amount of back pressure to maximize efficiency, and produce proper exhaust CO2 levels. When you mess with this setup, you change what the engine essentially needs to run correctly.
Although, I will say, with a V8, this is much less a problem than with a rice burner.
Just a heads up
I would just look for an aftermarket, stainless steel, starter heat shield. Usually, you take the starter off its mount(s), put the heat shield on the mount(s), then put the starter back on.
Also, if you have a complete aftermarket exhaust (excluding the catalytic I assume), then you probably got one that is 1/2" or larger in diameter than factory spec. While this will give you the hook up on HP and noise, it WILL fuck with your engines back pressure. Combustion engines are designed with an exhaust system that will supply the correct amount of back pressure to maximize efficiency, and produce proper exhaust CO2 levels. When you mess with this setup, you change what the engine essentially needs to run correctly.
Although, I will say, with a V8, this is much less a problem than with a rice burner.
