VeeshanVault

hay dudes i want to drive a motorcycle to work but i totally dont know anything about them so tell me about a good motorcycle that is an automatic and gets like 60 mpg and wont rip my balls off

i like the sportbike look but i would never drive one in traffic

Are there really that many Automatic bikes? Most I have seen were scooters. Ridley makes a fully automatic bike, but I think it's only available as a Cruiser.

http://www.ridleymotorcycle.com

i thought there were a lot of older bikes from the 70's/80's that were like two speed automatics

also under 4k

afaik, there are next to no automatic bikes in production.

under $4k you're looking at either very small engine, or used. 60mpg isn't hard to achieve with a bike, so that shouldn't be an issue.

If you're interested in learning how to drive/ride...check with your local community college. They are normally partnered with your DMV/DPS an offer a 3 day intensive class/ride course that serves as your driving test if you pass. Oh, and they provide the bike, just in case you fuck up.

If automatic is a must, then I'd recommend a scooter.

i want a small engine and was expecting to buy used anyway :>

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/mcy/159716213.html

something like that i guess. how comfortable is that style of bike?

I can't comment on the comfort, but one thing many people fail to do (especially with a sport/high performance bike) is fail to get a quote from their insurance company before purchase. What a sport or high performance bike, you are looking at some rates that could potentially be higher per year than the bike might cost you.

Definately check out insurance first once you find something you like stragi, especially in your age range it could be rough for a sports bike.

That Ninja you linked would be a good started bike, I didn't look at the details, but here is my opinion.

It is not all that hard to learn how to ride, and there are generally places where they teach you to ride, and you get your permit/license at the same time. If you are getting a sport bike, stick to a 600cc bike, and definately buy used. I would try and find something mid to late ninties, and try to find something without too many miles on it.. I personally wouldnt buy a sport bike with more than 20-25k miles on it tops, because as much as people beat on them, shit starts to break fairly early.

There arent any bikes I know of that are automatic, especially in sport type bikes. The closest you are gonna get there is a Vespa type thing.

Automatic transmission on motorcycle?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Yeah, ditch the idea of an automatic now on a moto....no one will know how to fix it anyhow! Way cheaper to repair the wet clutch in these systems if there is a problem.

I bought used, wanted something sportier than a cruiser, but didn't want a crotch rocket....ended up with a suzuki SV650. Its got enough torque and HP to keep you happy for a couple years atleast, I get 55+ mpg on it. Its jetted, and is carburated (obviously the "jetting" should give away the carburated version).

Newer ones are fuel injected. They sell new for $6k, which means there are 2 or 3 year old ones to be had for $3k or less.

Great bike with lots of parts available due to popularity...and it is always worht over $2k for track bike conversion.

Whatever you buy make sure you replace the exhaust pipes with the loudest ones you can find. You're not a real man unless you set off car alarms while going by.

I've got a 1985 VF500C and I usually get somewhere around 60 MPG when I ride. It's a street cruiser, not a sportbike, so insurance isn't that bad. Think it's in the neighborhood of $200 per 6 month period.

1 down, 5 up, V4 with overdrive. It's not what I want in the end, but it was a good purchase when I got it. I can drop it, bang it up and I don't really worry about it.

If you don't have your class M cert yet, take a look at the MSF Basic Rider Course. Most states have them and it might just save your life.

miir wrote:Automatic transmission on motorcycle?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

http://www.ridleymotorcycle.com

It's true!

Shifting and learning how to operate a clutch is part of the motorcycle experience, not to mention it gives you more control over the bike.. thats just plain lazy.

Boogahz wrote:I can't comment on the comfort, but one thing many people fail to do (especially with a sport/high performance bike) is fail to get a quote from their insurance company before purchase. What a sport or high performance bike, you are looking at some rates that could potentially be higher per year than the bike might cost you.

thats apparently not a high performance bike from my research

Funkmasterr wrote:Shifting and learning how to operate a clutch is part of the motorcycle experience, not to mention it gives you more control over the bike.. thats just plain lazy.

i don't care about the motorcycle experience i care about 60mpg and cheap/reliable

Stragi wrote:

Boogahz wrote:I can't comment on the comfort, but one thing many people fail to do (especially with a sport/high performance bike) is fail to get a quote from their insurance company before purchase. What a sport or high performance bike, you are looking at some rates that could potentially be higher per year than the bike might cost you.

thats apparently not a high performance bike from my research

It's still considered Sport or Street Sport. That's why I mentioned it as sport/high performance.

Vaemas wrote:I've got a 1985 VF500C and I usually get somewhere around 60 MPG when I ride. It's a street cruiser, not a sportbike, so insurance isn't that bad. Think it's in the neighborhood of $200 per 6 month period.

I like the sound of that

Boogahz wrote:It's still considered Sport or Street Sport. That's why I mentioned it as sport/high performance.

High performance or not, those layouts aren't really the best for commuting or learning how to ride.

I'd assume it's pretty uncomfortable too, every crotch rocket or look-alike I've been on was.

You'll get better mileage with a manual and less maintenance over time. That's assuming you're able to find an automatic at all. If you've got enough coordination to play EQ you can pick up on how to operate the clutch\shift in fairly short order.

Aslanna wrote:Whatever you buy make sure you replace the exhaust pipes with the loudest ones you can find. You're not a real man unless you set off car alarms while going by.

like this!

clearly the perfect newbie bike

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/mcy/159696111.html

Can I have all of your stuff when you leave this world? That bike should make it happen fairly soon.

Stragi wrote:

Funkmasterr wrote:Shifting and learning how to operate a clutch is part of the motorcycle experience, not to mention it gives you more control over the bike.. thats just plain lazy.

i don't care about the motorcycle experience i care about 60mpg and cheap/reliable

Any motorcycle you buy is going to get amazing gas mileage. This will obviously change a bit depending on how you are driving it the same as a car, but it will still be all about the same for a bike.


And if you buy that second bike you linked, you are gonna be a smear on the highway somewhere inside of a month.

heh to take this ridiculous post seriously or not..

Oh well, serious answer coming up:

That 250 Ninja is a great bike to putz around town or a college campus. I wouldn't be caught dead on it on the highway though. Not nearly enough power and you'll be in for a hell of a ride the first time you meet a semi.

For a beginner bike you don't want to go over 600 at most. Older CBR 600, older Katana or Ninja 500 should be great beginner bikes. Cheap, reliable and with enough power and stability to be safe. Anybody who tells you to get a 750, 900 or 1000 as a first bike is an idiot.

Take the safety class. Will more than likely save you money and your life heh.

I bought a 650 as listed above, and wish I just bought the litre bike to start....but that's me, and I consider myself a very good intermediate rider. Yes, the 650 has enough power for me, but I'm at the end of its powerband. If I want to push it more, I can't, its just not there anymore. So, I disagree with someone being an idiot for having a bigger bike as their first bike. If its what you want to do, then do it...just don't drive like a squid.


But, for commuting...buy small, sure. If you plan to improve your riding skills, maybe goto the track and whatnot...you will need a new bike sooner rather than later, and that gets annoying.

And lastly, that ninja 250 you posted, they only sell for like $3k something...I wouldn't buy a used one for more than $1800 or so....they are hard to sell, and they do not sell well because no one wants a bike that small.

You really need to take the MSF course in your area first. I’d imagine they’re run all year round in AZ as opposed to the brief time NJ actually offers them. In addition, the proper equipment to get you started does cost a decent chunk of change if you’re smart enough to wear the proper armor.

That being said, sport bikes are not really good first bikes unless the foot pegs are placed in normal sitting position. It’s harder to steer a bike with forward (cruiser) or back (sport) pegs/plates in the beginning.

Also, cc’s for sport bikes are definitely not the same as cruisers (like I ride). A 600cc sport bike can tear you head off if you’re not prepared while a 600cc’ish cruiser like a v-star 650 will get you in and out of traffic properly and be more responsive than most cars on the road once you learn the powerband, but the experience is leisure and road feel and is also considered small by cruiser standards. I really don’t know about auto motorcycles though. Is your left hand too small to grab the clutch or something?


http://forum.motorcycle-usa.com/default.aspx

While a lot of the posters are overly safe conscience, there is a TON of info from long time riders there.

i didn't even know motorcycles had clutches, i thought it was just some foot pedal like on quads

http://www.corbin.com/buell/blast.jpg this style of bike is my probably my favorite aesteticly, are they considered sportbikes?

i didn't even know motorcycles had clutches

Do you even understand how a transmission works?

...I consider myself a very good intermediate rider...

...the 650 has enough power for me, but I'm at the end of its powerband. If I want to push it more, I can't, its just not there anymore...

I don't wish ill on (almost) anyone in the world, but I see pain in your future. Other drivers, small patches of gravel, misc crap on the road, etc.. all have the potential to make for a very bad day.

I've passed 3 people in the last week who've laid it down in seemingly "clear" areas. One utter dumbass was in shorts, sneakers and t-shirt. He'll be picking gravel out of various parts of his anatomy for years to come.

I do most the crazy stuff on the track, with full gear.

On the road, I wear proper equipment, and tone down for conditions. If the rear wheel is sliding out on me, I take it easy. I have not been down yet, and plan to keep it that way indefinitely. I'm not foolish enough to drive like that in traffic, so that takes that one out.

I aint no squid.

Kluden wrote:I bought a 650 as listed above, and wish I just bought the litre bike to start....but that's me, and I consider myself a very good intermediate rider. Yes, the 650 has enough power for me, but I'm at the end of its powerband. If I want to push it more, I can't, its just not there anymore. So, I disagree with someone being an idiot for having a bigger bike as their first bike. If its what you want to do, then do it...just don't drive like a squid.

Yes you are an idiot if you buy a 1000 right away. That is why you buy an older used first bike and then sell it for pretty much the same amount of money after riding it for a year.

And you want keep not laying it down indefinitely. There are two types of riders: Those who have laid it down and those who will.

miir wrote:

i didn't even know motorcycles had clutches

Do you even understand how a transmission works?

i think it regulates the communication between the anti-lock brake system and the four wheel drive.


respectfully ask you to fag up another thread where i'm not legitimately looking to find information about motorcycles wherein the very first post i admit to knowing zero about them.

Stragi,

Not sure if you're serious or not...anyway, here's skinny on motorcycles and transmissions. The transmission is a collection of gears that translate the revolutions of the engine into revolutions of your tire. Depending on the gear combination selected, the bike is capable of different speeds within the normal RPM range of the engine. For control purposes, the bike is typically laid out with two foot pedals and two hand levers.

Left lever is the clutch. Right lever is the front brake.
Left pedal is the gear selector. Right pedal is rear brake.

Different bikes have different gear arrangements. For instance, my Honda is a 1 down, 5 up. This means that first gear is 1 click down from neutral. From first gear, neutral is a "half-click" up and 2nd gear is a full click. Each successive gear is 1 click up:

6 (OD)
5
4
3
2 - UP
N - NEUTRAL
1 - DOWN

In order to shift correctly, you squeeze the left lever in fully and then use your left foot to select the proper gear. This is typically done while balancing throttle usage (controlled by your right hand). Once you have selected the proper gear, you gradually release the left lever while once again balancing throttle usage.

When stopping, most instructors will teach students to downshift while stopping. This requires the rider to coordinate both hands and feet in simultaneous action. Id est, right hand applying brake pressure to the front tire (this is 70% of your stopping power), right foot applying pressure to the rear brake pedal, left hand squeezing/releasing clutch as left foot downshifts to 1st gear.

Vaemas wrote:Stragi,

Not sure if you're serious or not...anyway, here's skinny on motorcycles and transmissions. The transmission is a collection of gears that translate the revolutions of the engine into revolutions of your tire. Depending on the gear combination selected, the bike is capable of different speeds within the normal RPM range of the engine. For control purposes, the bike is typically laid out with two foot pedals and two hand levers.

Left lever is the clutch. Right lever is the front brake.
Left pedal is the gear selector. Right pedal is rear brake.

Different bikes have different gear arrangements. For instance, my Honda is a 1 down, 5 up. This means that first gear is 1 click down from neutral. From first gear, neutral is a "half-click" up and 2nd gear is a full click. Each successive gear is 1 click up:

6 (OD)
5
4
3
2 - UP
N - NEUTRAL
1 - DOWN

In order to shift correctly, you squeeze the left lever in fully and then use your left foot to select the proper gear. This is typically done while balancing throttle usage (controlled by your right hand). Once you have selected the proper gear, you gradually release the left lever while once again balancing throttle usage.

When stopping, most instructors will teach students to downshift while stopping. This requires the rider to coordinate both hands and feet in simultaneous action. Id est, right hand applying brake pressure to the front tire (this is 70% of your stopping power), right foot applying pressure to the rear brake pedal, left hand squeezing/releasing clutch as left foot downshifts to 1st gear.

thanks :> i know what a transmission is but i didn't know how it was laid on out on a motorcycle. i was under the impression that the hand levers were the brakes and the pedals would be for up shifting and down shifting.

the closest thing i've driven to a motorcycle was a quad which had no clutch, just the pedal that you clicked up and down to change gears.

Stragi,

I highly recommend taking a look at the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Basic Rider Course. Here's a link to the upcoming courses in Arizona.

http://nm.msf-usa.org/msf/ridercourses.aspx?state=AZ

I suggest you review this booklet put out by the MSF:

http://msf-usa.org/downloads/Motorcycle ... Manual.pdf

Take a look at page 7 for information related to the controls on a bike.

Most MSF courses provide motorcycles for use by the participants. I'm looking forward to going back for the advanced rider course. Hoping I can fit it in sometime this year.

Arizona requirements for receiving your motorcycle permit:

http://www.azdot.gov/mvd/driver/mcmanua ... 9part1.pdf

Stragi wrote:

miir wrote:

i didn't even know motorcycles had clutches

Do you even understand how a transmission works?

i think it regulates the communication between the anti-lock brake system and the four wheel drive.


respectfully ask you to fag up another thread where i'm not legitimately looking to find information about motorcycles wherein the very first post i admit to knowing zero about them.

This thread was fagged up on the first post...

But seriously, I find it hard to believe that you have no fucking clue on how a transmission works. Automatic motorcycles are marketed for women and fat men who lack the manual dexterity in their feet to manipulate the shifter.

don't selectively read parts of a post and maybe it'll be a bit more clear.

vaemas, thanks for the useful info sir. i'm about half way through that pdf.

I'm pretty sure the manual from your division of motor vehicles covers whatever you would need to know to get your learners permit. You need your permit to take the course in NJ so I'd imagine that would be the same for any state. But, a successful course completion (it burns a weekend but it is very beneficial imo) gets you a slip which you can turn in for a license. No additional testing required.
And just so you know, most of the bikes at the course are little honda rebel 250's or even other maker's 125's. Low speed steering with them is about as easy as it gets. You will also find a lot of people that always liked the idea of riding to really not enjoy it after taking the course. It really is the best thing you can do before you even begin to decide whether to make the investment.
If you do really like it, buy a smaller used as was stated. You're going to drop it whether you like it or not and it sucks to see anything but your pegs getting scratched on a new bike, never mind if it happens to fall right.

Stragi wrote:http://www.corbin.com/buell/blast.jpg this style of bike is my probably my favorite aesteticly, are they considered sportbikes?

I am not a 100% positive, but even though it's a sport style (especially for a harley), I would consider them a standard bike. Even though the styling can convice you otherwise, once you sit on it, it puts you in an upright position with your feet to brake/shift/balance in a standard sitting position. I am pretty sure the training courses run through Harley Davidson use Buell Blasts.

Kluden wrote:I do most the crazy stuff on the track, with full gear.

It took a whole lot of stitches, plastic surgery, etc.. for me to figure that one out

Stragi would look super cute on a scooter. I'm serial!

Nothing wrong with starting out with a 1000CC bike.

First bike I owned was an 1100 cc cruiser (Virago 1100). Second was a Honda VTR1000F (1000cc Vtwin sports bike). Fun bikes. Granted, I think I might have had a bit more understanding of bikes than the OP before I bought my own bike. My training was a 4 hour crash course by my brother in law on his race prepped RD400... good times

The newer 600s are more than enough to learn on considering they have as much Horse Power as the older 1000s did. I won't say that learning on a 1000 is stupid because you don't have to ride it to the limits but you do have less room to fuck up on a liter bike.

Kelshara wrote:heh to take this ridiculous post seriously or not..

Oh well, serious answer coming up:

That 250 Ninja is a great bike to putz around town or a college campus. I wouldn't be caught dead on it on the highway though. Not nearly enough power and you'll be in for a hell of a ride the first time you meet a semi.

For a beginner bike you don't want to go over 600 at most. Older CBR 600, older Katana or Ninja 500 should be great beginner bikes. Cheap, reliable and with enough power and stability to be safe. Anybody who tells you to get a 750, 900 or 1000 as a first bike is an idiot.

Take the safety class. Will more than likely save you money and your life heh.

250s are the biggest you can get on your learners/provision licence here (absent some older bikes that are underpowered for their engine/weight), and realistically they're almost as fast as litre bikes because of the weight difference (if the rider is also light).

The difference between a 600 and a 1000 is so slight to be negligible. A gixxer will get up over 150MPH, and do it in short order. In fact, I'd be more scared of that bike than my 1100 Blackbird, because it's far far far more likely to wheelie if you give it too much throttle.

I think you should start out with the MSF course and then go shopping anyway, IIRC they supply bikes to ride for the course (250s I believe) and it will give you a better feel for what to expect/shop for.

Notice I said older 600s Easy to ride, not as powerful as the newer 600s and you wont kill yourself when (not if) you lay it down.

And yes take the course first. They do provide you with easy to ride bikes.

Just a slight bump. I switched my motorcycle insurance to Geico this week. Allstate wanted $600 a year for some fucked up reason (no change in my record, anything). With my MSF course discount, my total premium is $106 a year with Geico.

Geico has a habit of increasing the rate after the first couple contracts. I had personal experience with this on Auto policy, and read many instances on cycle policies. Maybe your mileage will vary however

Found my local class, trying to save up the money for the fall

Yeah Geico increased my car insurance after the first year. Of course I was going to work out of the country for a year so I dropped them like a hot potato heh.

Looks like I'll be getting another bike when I return.. got the itch again!

I'm probably getting a 05 Raven R6 in the next week or two. There is no way I can pass up the deal I'm getting. 1300 miles on the bike never been put down. They norm go for about 7200-7500 I'm getting it for 4100 from a guy I work with.